6-day trail ride

Day I – 13 km

At 1:00 p.m. we meet at the KS Victoria Equestrian Centre in Supraśl, at 40 Białostocka Street, for welcome coffee and sweets. After coffee, horse and equipment allocation, and loading the luggage into the car that will accompany us throughout the expedition, we saddle the horses and at 4:00 p.m. set off for Surażkowo.

Departing from Supraśl, we pass, among other places, the Supraśl Monastery, one of the most important cultural landmarks of Podlasie. We then plunge into the depths of the Knyszyńska Forest, among pine woods and the winding Supraśl River nearby.

The area we ride through was already traversed by Mesolithic hunters, who set up their camps on the sandy dunes along the Supraśl River. In the village of Konne, which lies on our route, one of the most interesting archaeological discoveries associated with this period was made. Just before the outbreak of World War II, the grave of a hunter dating back more than 9,000 years was discovered here. The find was sent to the State Archaeological Museum in Warsaw, where it was lost amid the turmoil of war. Verification studies carried out after the war confirmed a burial type rare in Poland, in which the deceased was placed in the grave in a bound position and generously sprinkled with red pigment — ochre.

Along the way, we make a short stop and have a mini photo session in the “Forest Gallery” beneath an ancient oak (a site commemorating the tragic events of the January Uprising of 1863).

After just under 3 hours, we reach the charming horse farm in Surażkowo (“Ritowisko” Agritourism Farm), where we have a unique opportunity to learn about the breeding of Kladruber horses. This breed was bred at the Kladruby nad Labem stud farm, established in 1572 by Emperor Maximilian II, and in the Czech Republic it is regarded as a national treasure. The Kladruber is now one of the heaviest warmblood horses, found only in two colours (grey or black), standing over 170 cm tall and weighing more than 700 kg, with a distinctive Roman nose. These were typical carriage horses and to this day they are perfectly suited to driving. The best example is “Ritowisko” itself, whose host drives two-, four-, and even six-horse teams.

Upon arrival, we release the horses into the expansive meadows by the Supraśl River. Before dinner, there will still be an opportunity to bathe the horses and also to enjoy a swim in the river in the rays of the setting sun. Then comes a delicious dinner of Podlasie specialities and herbal infusions brewed from herbs hand-picked by our delightful hostess Rita, who knows everything about the medicinal plants of the Knyszyńska Forest and is happy to share her knowledge.

Day II – 38 km

Another long and eventful day of our forest journey lies ahead, so after an early breakfast we set off without delay. Attractions along the way include: a lovely little Orthodox church in Łaźnie (with the obligatory mini photo shoot); the charming settlement of Pieczonka, seemingly “drowned” in the forest; and woodland tracks running along the borders of the “Bahno w Borkach” nature reserve. This reserve was created to protect well-developed boreal peatland communities distinguished by a rich flora of vascular plants and mosses, as well as the presence of many protected species. We pass the village of Borki and the settlement of Kondycja, and after about 20 km we reach the Wyżary reservoir. The small lake is surrounded by forest, and the entire area is excellently developed for tourism, including walking routes across wetland areas on wooden boardwalks. A horse rest stop and a meal will be organized at Wyżary.

After a 2-hour rest, we continue on our way. Virtually the entire route leads through the wild depths of the Knyszyńska Forest, where we must always be prepared for the possibility of encountering bison, moose, deer, or even wolves. Parts of our route follow the Napoleonic Route and the January Uprising Trail. The march of Napoleonic troops retreating under pressure from the Russian army in the winter of 1812 and the January Uprising of 1863 are the two events that left the strongest mark on local memory. Soldiers’ graves, battle and skirmish sites, encampments, the routes of Napoleonic troops and insurgent units — all of this can still be found in the landscape, in the names of local sites, and in stories passed down from generation to generation.

For the night and dinner, we arrive in the charming and exceptionally picturesque village of Skroblaki, hidden deep in the forest and suddenly emerging from the woodland. Skroblaki is a typical linear village, with beautiful wooden cottages on both sides of a cobbled road, wells in the yards, cranes calling from nearby thickets, and a solid wall of forest just beyond the farm buildings.

Day III – 23 km

Another day brings further experiences of the realities of the “ends of the earth.” We ride along the Polish-Belarusian border, which is also the external border of the European Union. Along the way, we will see little borderland villages tucked beside the border river Świsłocz: Bobrowniki, Chomontowce, Rudaki, and Łosiniany. When visiting them, one always has the impression that time has stood still and that, by some strange twist of fate, we have been transported back to the realities of the 19th century. The present day will also catch up with us: we will certainly encounter Border Guard patrols, but fortunately the ban on movement within the border zone, which had been in force for more than a year and a half, has already been lifted.

In the evening, we return to Skroblaki, where, in addition to a delicious dinner, a sauna and a hot tub await us so that we can relax after the challenges of the first three days.

Day IV – 25 km

The next day brings an encounter with the “Polish Orient.” After breakfast, we head to Kruszyniany — the “capital” of the Polish Tatars — where there will be an opportunity to visit the mosque and the mizar, and to have lunch at the famous “Tatarska Jurta.” This year, after eight years since the fire that destroyed this iconic place on the culinary map of Podlasie and Poland, “Tatarska Jurta” is returning home, to its rebuilt guesthouse with a beautifully and atmospherically designed restaurant.

This day is also an opportunity to ride the 5-km Ecumenical Trail around the Ozierany reservoir. The trail commemorates and reflects the religious and cultural diversity of the region while leading through beautiful scenery. It is a historical remembrance of the Tatars, Jews, and Orthodox Christians who once lived here. The Ecumenical Trail is a collection of monuments, roadside shrines, and crosses characteristic of each faith. Another must is a swim with the horses in the lake.
In the evening, we return to Skroblaki and, no doubt, enjoy long conversations over dinner and later by the bonfire.

Day V – 25 km

The next day marks the beginning of our return from the eastern border toward Supraśl. First comes a long, sandy, straight road, perfect for an unrestricted gallop, which after 8 kilometres turns into a causeway between extensive ponds — unmistakable proof that we have reached Piłatowszczyzna. Then comes Słuczanka, a long village with a cobbled street and beautiful wooden houses, in front of which benches still stand and on which we can still see local residents resting today.

Soon afterwards, we arrive in Waliły, the home village and place of residence of the famous painter Leon Tarasewicz, professor at the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw, who in his native village not only creates art but also breeds ornamental hens that have become champions at many national and international shows

We then once again plunge into dense forest stretches and, via the village of Pieszczaniki, reach Załuki, where dinner and an overnight stay await us at “Stajnia Charyzma.” In addition to a delicious dinner, we suggest meeting the horses from the local stable, taking a swim in the Supraśl River, and visiting Mr. Piotr, a well-known breeder of cold-blooded horses. This time there will be an opportunity to learn about the Sokólski preservation breed, for which Podlasie is the cradle and main breeding region.

Day VI – 20 km

In the morning, after breakfast, we continue on our journey. From Załuki we head towards Jakubin, a locality that today exists only as a name on the map and where we can see only the ruins of Jakub Sakowicz’s manor farm. After a short ride along a forest road, the most beautiful, most interesting, and most demanding section of our trail ride lies ahead: the Świętojańskie Hills — the range of the highest moraine hills in the Knyszyńska Forest. The relative height differences reach up to 80 m here, with slopes of up to 30 degrees (steep hillside gradients). Ahead of us are: St. Anne’s Hill (202 m above sea level), with a site commemorating the insurgents of 1863; Kopna Hill (211 m above sea level), with a viewing tower; and St. John’s Hill (214 m above sea level). Nearby we pass Królowy Most, known from the film series “U Pana Boga za piecem.” After passing the forest village of Cieliczanka and covering another 4 km, Supraśl appears before us, with the towers of its churches and Orthodox churches rising above it — a view we will admire for nearly 1 km as we enter the town from the Cieliczanka side.

After unsaddling the horses, we have lunch at the KS “Victoria” Equestrian Centre, and then at around 3:00 p.m. we set off on a 2-hour walk around Supraśl. It is not enough time to explore the town’s attractions in depth, but certainly enough to feel its unique atmosphere, see its “iconic” places, fall in love with it, and want to return one day. We part ways at the gates of the iconic “Jarzębinka” bar, because you simply cannot leave Supraśl without tasting potato babka and kartacze. We also guarantee that after visiting “Jarzębinka” you will have neither the strength nor the desire to return home. So perhaps one more weekend in Supraśl?

The spa town of Supraśl is undoubtedly worth staying in for a few more days. This charming town, whose origins date back to the late 15th century, with its numerous monuments, picturesque streets, setting along the Supraśl River, and surroundings of the Knyszyńska Forest, is sure to enchant everyone. Its spa offer (rehabilitation treatments, graduation tower), regional cuisine, and wide range of tourist attractions are additional advantages that will make the time spent here more than worthwhile.